Sailboat Electrics Simplified (Free PDF)

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I admire those hard cases who, before setting off around the globe, lever the engine out of the bilge and tilt it over the rail, deep-sixing a whole passel of woes. The time not spent doing maintenance can effectively add weeks to a cruise. Maybe the engineless do miss a few destinations with difficult approaches, but they also avoid languishing in some overdeveloped and under-flushed harbor awaiting the arrival of transmission parts. They never spill fuel, smudge the transom with soot, or besmirch profound silence with the clatter of reciprocating iron. Discarding the engine also rules out mechanical refrigeration, you won’t find a watermaker aboard, and the absence of an engine-driven alternator necessarily simplifies the boat’s electrical system.

I am personally OK with ice for uncomplicated refrigeration, and to me catching water actually seems preferable to “making” it, but when I contemplate kerosene lighting, the simplicity of “pure” sail loses all appeal. Kerosene illumination bright enough to read by will add at least 20 degrees to the cabin temperature. That may be nice when it is 40°F outside, but when it’s 85°F—well, you do the math.

On my boat I want bright and cool electric lights. While that doesn’t necessarily require an alternator powered by a 500-pound diesel engine—a couple of solar panels can provide enough electricity for cabin lights—I also want fans. And a radio transmitter. And a good sound system. When the anchorages get deep, I could use the help of an electric windlass. And speaking of hauling, resupplying the cooler with ice gets to be a drag quicker than I like to admit.

Content:-

INTRODUCTION
1. SAFETY FIRST
2. UNDERSTANDING THE BASICS
3. BATTERY
4. WIRE
5. CIRCUITS
6. TROUBLESHOOTING
7. CHARGING SYSTEMS
8. ALTERNATING CURRENT
9. HEAVEN AND EARTH
INDEX

Author Details

"DON CASEY"

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